What's In It Wednesday: A Miracle?

Wednesday, January 28, 2009


I received an email the other day from a regular Chic & Green reader. She asked me to take a look at the ingredients of a product that keeps popping up in MSN ads.

If you click the pop up, it takes you to a woman's page (a paid ad) about a "miracle" product called Tripeptinon.™

This product claims to be the be all and end all of anti-aging products and if you act now, it can be yours for only $79!



It contains:  Cyclomethicone, Dimethiconol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinesis, Ceramide Complex 2, Ubiquinone, Amino Multi-Tides, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, PEG10 Rapeseed Sterol,Triticum Vulgare, Glycyrrhiza Glabra, Carthamus Tinctorius, Angelica Archangelica Extract, Tribehenin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Citrus Bark Extract (Fragrance).

Let's start with the two most abundant ingredients in this "miracle" product: Cyclimethicone and Dimethiconol. These are silicones. You may be more familiar with the first ingredient, as it is the key ingredient in dry oil sprays.
There is nothing these barrier agents do in terms of anti-aging. They can create a smooth surface but have no anti-aging properties. They are frequently used, though, because they feel nice on the skin and people are more likely to regularly use the product based on that alone.

Caprylic/Capric Trigylcerides is simply another term for Fractionated Coconut Oil.

Simmondsia Chinesis is the name for Jojoba Oil. You know from my own products that I love to use Jojoba Oil. I love the fact that this is so close to our own sebum and it is waxy is just truly wonderful for nearly everyone. Will the use of Jojoba Oil warrant an almost $80 price tag and create "miracle" results? No.

Ceramide Complex 2: These are lipids and will help plump the skin. There are different forms. For example, the company that revolutionized the ceramide capsule idea years ago, Elizabeth Arden, uses Ceramide 1, 3 and 6 in their capsules.

Ubiquinone: This is another name for the compound found in all living cells called Co-Enzyme Q10. This was the "latest" and greatest skin care miracle a few years back. While it can give your skin a healthy glow and help to fight against free radical damage, studies have shown this to be much more effective when it is taken internally as a pill, as opposed to topical application. I am not saying this isn't a good ingredient: it is good for your health, but it will not produce "face lifting" or miracle results.

Amino Multi-tides: This is very vague. The company will not disclose WHAT these amino acids are. Their amino multi-tides are supposedly the company's blend of amino acids. There are 20 standard amino acids. While amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, some do present side effects in certain individuals with certain health issues and medications. By being so vague, I wouldn't try it.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: This is Vitamin C-ester. In other words, 4 extra molecules have been added to the original Vitamin C molecule. Vitamin C is wonderful for the skin--in appropriate concentrations. This is not going to lift, tone and tighten the skin, though.

PEG10 Rapeseed Sterol: I would absolutely not use this product based on this alone. PEG is used to thicken products, however, it has repeatedly been shown to be contaminated with something called 1,4-dioxane. This can cause cancer, and became something people became more aware of a couple years back when it was found in many baby products. Research shows that 1,4-dioxane does penetrate the skin, and since it causes cancer, you would obvously not want to touch this one with a 10-foot pole.

Triticum Vulgare: This is simply Wheat Germ Oil. I adore Wheat Germ Oil, as it is very rich in both Lecithin and Vitamin E. This a a highly nourishing oil.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra: This is Licorice. Licorice can be effective at calming acne-prone skin, soothing and it when the acne causes discomfort to the skin. It also helps to control the production of oil.

Carthamus Tinctorius: This is simply Safflower Oil, a oil I use often in my own line. Safflower can be used well by nearly everyone. It is highly nourishing, yet it is light and absorbs right into the skin. Some believe it can help maintain the skin's structure.

Angelica Archangelica Extract: Comes from the root of the Angelica plant. It is a potent anti-inflammatory and analgesic, but can also be irritating to some skins.

Tribehenin: This simply helps the product penetrate more easily into the skin and is a mixture of behenic acid & glycerin. 

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate: This is an emollient and thickening agent.

Citrus Bark Extract: This is plant-derived, to add a slight orange scent to the product, most likely so customers using it will smell the orange and falsely believe that it is so packed with vitamin C that it is doing something good for the skin (a tactic used by many companies selling Vitamin C products).


The Bottom Line:  I would never spend $79 on this product. There is nothing in this, based solely on the ingredients list, that will do what it claims. What I am most suprised about is the fact that the three most proven ingredients in the skin care arena are not present in this "miracle product." The two most potent peptides, Argireline and Matrixyl 3000 are not in this. Hyaluronic Acid combined with one or both of those 2 ingredients packs a punch and have shown to be the best ingredients when used regularly. To overlook those 3 ingredients--to not even add in ONE--speaks volumes about how unlikely it is that this product will deliver on any of its claims.

If you like the idea of capsules full of ceramides and other ingredients, I would choose the ones from Elizabeth Arden. You get 60 as opposed to 40. You also benefit from a high concentration of squalane. The first two ingredients are identical, but Arden actually has better ingredients at a much lower cost. I still wouldn't recommend either due to the high price alone.
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